La Part du Boucher Vin de France Red Wine, France 2023

A blend of whatever assorted lots of wine were left after winemaker Jean-Marc Sauboua had finished composing his primary range, La Part du Boucher is a medium- to full-bodied red with deep blackberry, cassis and plum flavors cut through with notes of tobacco and heady baking spice.

Its name is a playful reference to the old French expression la part du boucher, or “the butcher’s cut,” derived from the belief that the butcher always keeps the best portion of meat for himself.

Jean-Marc had originally made the stuff as a thank you for his cellar crew—adding small portions of any remaining Bordeaux to a barrel and tucking it away for a while. But with each bottling, it became increasingly clear the wine was just too good to keep in-house.

Its exact composition remains mysterious and changes each year based on what Jean-Marc has available: There may be a little Pomerol, a little Pauillac and perhaps some Saint Emilion, enhanced by other various grapes from southwest France. We can tell you, however, to expect a sturdy and accessible red with tobacco, currant and clove all informing a juicy yet structured pour of black fruits.

Jean-Marc recommends decanting the wine briefly before serving, and to enjoy it alongside any cut of meat you may have on hand.